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2007 Joseph Phelps Insignia- What’s your definition of value?

3 Sep

2007 Insignia Bottle ImageAt $149.95 (the lowest price in the country), can you call the 2007 Joseph Phelps Insignia a value, worthy of a mention on Nickel and Dime Wine?  It depends on your definition of value.  For the record, my definition of value is a product that significantly outperforms its price point.  So by my definition, the 2007 Insignia is an indisputable value just as a Ferrari 458 Italia (a $230k car) would be a value at $100k.  It’s not for everyone, but for those that can justify spending $150 on a bottle of wine, this potentially perfect example is worth it.

Robert Parker says “I would not be surprised to see it become the greatest Insignia to date and close in on a perfect score.”  Last year I had the 2002 Insignia (currently selling for $200+), which was widely recognized as one of the best to date, even receiving Wine of the Year recognition from Wine Spectator.  It was the best Cabernet I’ve ever drunk and a year later the smell, taste and texture lingers in my mind today.  The same can’t be said about about other “experiences” I’ve spent $150 on- a night in a hotel, my last visit to the dentist’s office, my cable bill- the list goes on.  That’s the beauty of wine.  You aren’t only buying a product but, if you like wine like I do, you’re potentially buying a potentially memorable experience.

Wine connoisseurs all over the world are spending $200, $300, $500 and even thousands of dollars on so-called “cult” Cabernets and First Growth Bordeaux.  They spend that money, not because the wine is worth it.  Nothing that can be consumed and passed through body in a matter of hours can be worth those prices.  They spend that kind of money for the experience and the memory.  For $150, the 2007 Insignia should be opened with family or friends, and will likely provide a more pleasurable experience for much less money.  And for many, that is the definition of value.

Buy Here: 2007 Joseph Phelps Insignia $149.95

Robert Parker 97-100 points

“The 2007 Insignia (a 13,500-case blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot) offers a seamless introduction to this flagship cuvee. Its inky/purple color is followed by aromas of creme de cassis, incense, crushed rocks, lead pencil shavings, cedar, and spice box. It possesses a massive, opulent mouthfeel, serious tannins, and no hard edges. This stunning effort should hit its peak in 5-8 years, and last 40 years. I would not be surprised to see it become the greatest Insignia to date and close in on a perfect score.

In case you think the aging curves I have described are unrealistically long, I have the Joseph Phelps regular Cabernets from the mid-seventies as well as the Insignias in my cellar, and those wines are still drinking beautifully at 30+ years of age. Today’s wines are better made.”

Single Vineyard Napa Chardonnay Goodness- Levendi Red Hen $19.95

1 Sep

Levendi Chardonnay Red Hen 2008Most of the grapes grown in Napa, or any region for that matter, aren’t planted, maintained, and harvested by the company that ultimately brings the wine you drink to market.  Rather, most grapes are grown and then sold, by the ton, to producers large and small.  Markets actually exist for grapes just like corn, soybeans or pork bellies.  In fact, some of the most famous and popular wines in the country, names like Silver Oak, Cakebread and Caymus, use purchased grapes for at least a portion of their wines.

Those wines carry generic appellation names (Napa) which allows the wineries to source grapes from anywhere in the county.  But a growing trend is single vineyard designated wines, whether they be from an estate’s own vineyards, or as in this case, from a vineyard managed by a third party.  Some of the most famous and high quality vineyards in the country are independently owned and managed, selling all of their grapes to high-end producers like Levendi (think Stagecoach, To-Kalon, Hyde and many others).

Levendi purchased the grapes for this fantastic 2008 Chardonnay from one of the Laird Family’s vineyards called Red Hen.  It’s located in the Oak Knoll AVA where cool winds make for a perfect climate for Chardonnay.  This is textbook Napa Chardonnay- rich, buttery but with a nice acid balance that keeps it crisp.  Single vineyard wines possess a uniqueness that blends can’t achieve, and that’s what I really like about this Chardonnay.  At $20 it’s in an odd price point, higher than a daily drinker (at least for me), but below splurge territory.  Put that aside and give this one a try.  I think you will find that it’s an incredible value and you will enjoy tasting the uniqueness of Red Hen Vineyard.

Buy Here: 2008 Levendi Chardonnay Red Hen Vineyard

A new BYOB world record!

29 Aug

BYOB world record pictureOn Monday we had a company retreat to Avalon, California on Catalina Island.  For dinner we brought an entire case of wine to a very nice restaurant.  The picture to the left is our only evidence for the night.  The faces have been obscured to protect the innocent and the not-so-innocent.

Did you know that almost all fine dining establishments allow customers to bring their own wine?  Often times there is a corkage fee, but sometimes there isn’t.  Sometimes there is a bottle limit and sometimes you can’t bring anything that’s on the wine list.  I always call ahead to find out the BYOB policy.  Either way, it’s almost always a better deal than ordering something off the menu, especially 12 somethings.

The wine we brought averaged $28 a bottle at our bargain hunting retail price (six each of 2006 B.V. Tapestry Reserve and 1997 Burgess Cellars Cabernet).  Even with a relatively high $20 corkage fee, we saved nearly $400 assuming these wines would have been around $80 on a typical wine list.

I’ve gotten to the point where I won’t eat at a nice restaurant unless I’m allowed to bring my own wine.  I’ve recently brought my own beverages to Gramercy Tavern in NYC, Bouchon in Las Vegas, Craft in LA and Redd in Yountville; all high-end establishments with extensive wine lists.  We also bring to all of our regular haunts in the neighborhood.

Nickel and Dime Wine Top Tip: Bring Your Own whenever you can.  It almost always pays, and more importantly, you get to choose exactly what you want to drink.  I like to try something a little nicer than I would normally drink because, hey, I’d be paying for anyway it if I didn’t BYO.  My top picks right now?  Let’s pretend you’re getting together with friends- a party of six for a nice dinner.  Here is a perfect progression of nice, but not outrageous wine, that would make for a lovely BYO evening.

2007 Landmark Chardonnay Overlook- $19.95 ($45-60 on a wine list)

2007 Etude Pinot Noir- $29.95 ($65-85 on a wine list)

2008 Caymus Cabernet- $59.95 ($125-150 on a wine list)

For a little over $100 before any corkage fees, you and your five best friends get to drink high-end wine for value prices.   Next time you go out to dinner, don’t forget to call and ask if you can bring your favorite wine.  It will make your meal more enjoyable and more affordable!

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$6 Spanish Garnacha that drinks like a $20 wine. WA87

26 Aug

2009 Garnacha de FuegoSpain is producing some amazing values right now.  In an age when quality U.S. reds are considered values when they come in below $20, these Spanish wines under $10 are absolute steals.  How often have you drunk a $6 bottle and said “I can find absolutely no fault in this wine”?  I can count those experiences on one hand.

The 2009 Garnacha de Fuego does have one fault.  The label is absolutely awful.  It looks like a teenager’s Photoshop project.  Otherwise this wine is faultless.  That’s not to say that every aspect blew me away, but rather that everything is in its proper place- a real accomplishment for a $6 wine.

This Garnacha comes from 60-80 year old vines resulting in a concentrated wine that manages to retain an especially juicy, bright taste.  As vines age, they produce less and less fruit, but the fruit they do produce gets more and more concentrated.  All vines benefit from age (to a certain point) but Garnacha in Spain, Syrah/Shiraz in France/Australia and Zinfandel in the U.S. seem to get better with 50 and even 100 years of age.  The problem is that it becomes cost prohibitive as the vines produce less fruit.  So a $6 wine sourced from 80 year old vines is impressive!

I can’t think of many $6 wines that I would even consider drinking, let alone one that I would actually seek out.  Seek this one out  at L.A. Wine Co.  They have it for around $1 less than everyone else.

Buy Here: 2009 Garnacha de Fuego $5.99

Wine Advocate 87 points

“The 2009 Garnacha de Fuego was sourced from 60- to 80-year-old vines at 3000 feet of elevation, insane for an $8 wine. Aside from the price, the other piece of good news is that there are 6500 cases for the USA market. Purple-colored with spicy black cherry aromas that jump from the glass, this is a forward, friendly, ripe effort with no hard edges. Drink this crowd-pleaser over the next 2-3 years.

Bodegas Ateca is a collaboration between the Gil family of Jumilla and importer Jorge Ordonez.”

2009 Trinitas Chardonnay- Oak, smoke, no joke at $19.95

26 Aug

Trinitas Label 2009 ChardonnayDo you like subtle, clean, stainless steel Chardonnay?  If so do not buy this wine.  On the other hand, if you are like me and prefer the rich, oaky, barrel fermented version, Trinitas has yet another fantastic value with their 2009 vintage Chardonnay from Carneros.  Carneros, which spans Napa and Sonoma on Napa’s southwest side, is to Chardonnay what Oakville is to Cabernet.  In a word (or three)- the perfect climate.  The cooler climate created by the maritime influence of San Palo Bay is perfect for growing Chardonnay grapes and this AVA tends to produce the most expensive Chardonnay coming out of Napa and Sonoma.

This wine has a complexity rarely found in a $20 Chardonnay.  The toasty oak in which this wine was aged makes for a fragrant, smokey nose and a rich buttery texture.  The complexity of this wine is serious.  It reminds me of a cross between Rombauer and Beringer Private Reserve, which is putting this $20 wine in pretty esteemed company.  Trinitas has a history of making some fantastic values.  Their Oakville Cabernet for $25 is awesome, and this Chardonnay is equally as good.

2009 is looking like another 2007 quality vintage for California.  We are really lucky to have only one or two less than stellar vintages per decade in this state.  Go to France and you have to turn that equation on it’s head- they have only one or two great vintage per decade.  Watch for more great values emerging from 2009 as more wineries release their whites this year and their reds in the next two years.

2009 Trinitas Chardonnay Carneros $19.95

2008 Caymus Cabernet- Amazing every year. $59.95

22 Aug

2008 Caymus bottle shotHow Caymus makes consistently fantastic wines year after year is absolutely beyond me.  Not only have I never had a vintage I didn’t like, I’ve never had one that didn’t blow me away.  Did you ever wonder why they release their wines a full year before most other wineries and two years before competitors like Silver Oak?  Because their wines sell out every year.  Those other wineries already have their wines bottled, but they can’t release the next vintage until the prior vintage is gone.  Caymus doesn’t have that problem.  Some people won’t buy Caymus because it’s one of the most famous names in the valley.   But unlike some of their competitors who rest on their laurels, Caymus wines keep delivering every year.

Equally impressive is how this wine tastes great upon release but is completely ageworthy at the same time.  Comparisons will no doubt be made to Caymus’ incredible 2007 vintage.  I haven’t drunk the 2007 and 2008 side-by-side yet, but my initial thought is that the 2008 drinks as well or better than the 2007 today.  How they will compare in 10 years is TBD.  My gut is that the 2007 will be marginally better, but it really could go either way.

What I love so much about Caymus wines is their uniqueness in an age when many California Cabernets are starting to taste alike.  I guarantee I could pick ether vintage out of a lineup of 10 similarly priced California Cabernets.  They have a signature sweetness that brings the firm tannin into balance.  Perhaps the best part of this wine is the texture- weighty, silky and rich in every way.

In the style of The Most Interesting Man in the World: ” I don’t always drink $60 Cabernet, but when I do, I prefer Caymus”.

Buy Here: 2008 Caymus Cabernet $59.95

Zaca Mesa day 3 update. This is amazing.

20 Aug

I opened this wine on Tuesday night and it was thoroughly enjoyable.  This sat on the counter for two days while I made  a trip from LA to Chicago and back, which made the second half of the bottle twice as good.  This is easily the best Syrah value I’ve tasted all year and a top 5  overall wine value.   And remember: every wine I write about is a value!  If you buy one Syrah all year, buy the Zaca Mesa 2006 Santa Ynez Valley.  I can’t say enough about the value here.

2006 Zaca Mesa Syrah $15.95

The Best Syrah under $20- Zaca Mesa 2006 $15.95 WS93

17 Aug

Zaca Mesa 2006 SyrahI have not had a better domestic Syrah this year.  The $15.95 Zaca Mesa Syrah is that good.  I knew it as I was pouring because the aromas absolutely jumped out of the glass.  As a point of reference, Shafer’s legendary “Relentless” Syrah got 90 points from Wine Spectator for the 2006 vintage and it’s $60.  I’m not saying the Shafer isn’t worth $60, just that the Zaca Mesa is that good!

Tonight I made a truffled Shiitake mushroom and chicken pizza and the earthiness of the mushrooms and truffle oil were a perfect compliment to this Syrah.  Yes, I said the food was a compliment to the wine, not the opposite.  The wine was the star today.

This Syrah comes from Zaca Mesa’s estate vineyards in the Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barbara County.  The estate label means that the grapes are from Zaca Mesa’s own vineyards and they never leave their property until after the wine is bottled.

Everything about the nose on this wine screams Syrah.  It’s not overblown or hot like some domestic Syrah.  Scents of  sweet blackberry and a hint of white pepper lead into an awesome round flavor of dark cherries with a hint of smoky bacon.  Speaking of bacon, the texture is like they mixed in a little bit of bacon fat- mouth coating and smooth.  Everything about this wine- the nose, mouthfeel, taste and finish- is perfectly integrated, which addresses my main complaint about domestic Syrah.  So good.

The 2006 vintage is almost sold out so get it while you can.  Values like this don’t come along very often.   It will last for 10 or more years so don’t be shy!

Buy Here: 2006 Zaca Mesa Syrah $15.95

Wine Spectator 93 points

“Offering wonderful floral, grapey plum and wild berry aromas, this is rich, smooth and supple on the palate, with tiers of dark berry, mocha, mineral and spice flavors that glide along. Drink now through 2015. 12,325 cases made. “

Ramey Claret 2007- Another high-end half bottle value. $16.95 WS93

15 Aug

My wife was out of town this weekend, so I had another perfect opportunity to open a half bottle of wine.  I never thought I would say that less wine is a positive thing, but here we are…  Luckily I had just picked up a 375 of Ramey 2007 Claret that was calling my name tonight.  Dave Ramey is the winemaking genius behind the epic Dominus Cabernets of the 90’s including the 99 point 1994 vintage.  Obviously, he knows what he’s doing.

The 2007 Claret, a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah, and 2% each of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, is yet another fantastic 2007 Cabernet based blend.  This year, it could be called a Cabernet, but David Ramey uses the “Claret” name because the blend changes every year and doesn’t always meet the 75% minimum required to label a wine with a specific varietal.   I can’t overstate how incredible the 2007 vintage has been for Napa Cabernet.  If you have a favorite label, buy the 2007 vintage while you still can.  This 2007 is Ramey’s entry level Cabernet, which is sort of like an entry level Ferrari.  It’s still REALLY good.

Sweet, somewhat soft, but by no means flabby, this wine is made for early drinking.  Now, when I hear a particular wine is “meant for early drinking”, I usually avoid it.  But don’t let that designation deter you in this case.  Remember, this is a 93 point rated, serious wine.  The 15% Syrah is detectable and adds a nice extra dimension and body to this wine.  Speaking of dimension, the texture, one of David Ramey’s specialties, is the defining characteristic of his 2007 Claret.  It’s silky, smooth and mouth coating, adding immensely to the character of this fantastic value.  If Ramey’s “entry level” wine is this great, I can’t wait to try the rest of his portfolio.  As usual, LA Wine Co. has the lowest price in the country by almost $2/ half bottle!  Of note, the 2006 vintage is still available in full bottles at the insanely low price of $24.95.

Buy Here: 2007 Ramey Claret Napa Valley 375ml $16.95

Wine Spectator 93 points

“Bordeaux-like in its subtlety and restraint, yet rich and flavorful, full-bodied and expansive, with a medley of cedar, currant, cigar box, tar and mineral. Firm and focused, its elegance and refinement are impressive. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2018. 4,500 cases made.”

Wine Advocate 91 points

“There are 4,800 cases of the 2007 Claret, which shrewd consumers should be seeking out. A blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec, it exhibits smoky, licorice, and black currant aromas, suave, velvety, full-bodied flavors, admirable purity and depth, and delicious fruit, all offered in a hedonistic, satisfying style. A top bargain for a Napa Valley Cabernet, it should drink well for a decade or more.

All of David Ramey-s Sonoma Coast, Russian River, and Carneros wines will be reviewed in the February, 2010 issue along with all the other non-Napa Valley wines.”

International Wine Cellar 91 points

“($38; 77% cabernet sauvignon, 15% syrah, and 2% each of merlot, petit verdot, cabernet franc and malbec) Deep ruby. Aromas of blackcurrant, cherry, herbs and tobacco, complicated by a subtle smoky quality. Sweet, smooth and fairly full on the palate, showing ripe red- and blackcurrant and bitter cherry flavors. Elegant in a Bordeaux style, with chewy tannins and good mineral lift. Finishes with a strong echo of red fruits and a suave floral note. This wine saw no new oak.”

Bodegas Castano Solanera 2005- 91 points for $6.99

13 Aug

Solanera 2005 bottle90 point wines for under $20 are rare.  91 points for $6.99 falls into the unheard of category.  In the latest issue of Wine Spectator, the cheapest price for a 91 point Spanish wine, in any region, was $40.  Drop down to 90 points and a $17 wine exists (2.5x this wine).  Making this wine an even better value, is that it’s a 2005, at a time when Spain is releasing many reds from the 2009 vintage.

Imported by the master of Spanish and French wines, Eric Solomon, this blend is mature, smooth and delicious.  Complex cherry and coffee scents on the nose lead into a velvety mouthfeel with ripe, but refined flavors.  Interestingly, this wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered, winemaking techniques usually reserved for the high-end wines that don’t need any enhancements after barrel aging and before bottling.  The tiny, undetectable pieces of skin left in the wine contribute to the complex tannin structure and likely to the slight bricking (browning) color on the rim of the glass of this medium to full bodied wine.

This wine is from the Yecla region of Spain, an area with only 11 bodegas or vineyards.  There are some one square mile parcels in Napa that have more wineries than that!  It’s so exciting for me to explore the lesser known wine regions of  Europe where values like this can be had.  With 65% Monastrell, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Tintorera, this is a textbook Spanish blend.  If you are a fan of Spanish wines, this is daily drinking magic for a next-to-nothing price.  The 2005 vintage won’t be around for much longer so enjoy it while you can!

Update from day 2: This wine is even better after having been open for 24 hours.  The nose opens up and it gains depth.  Well done!

Buy Here: Bodegas Castano Solanera 2005 $6.99

Wine Advocate 91 points

“No Tasting Notes Given”

International Wine Cellar 90 points

“65% monastrell, 20% cabernet sauvignon and 15% tintorera) Saturated purple. Smoky raspberry and cherry on the nose, with a sexy mocha quality adding complexity. Fleshy, round dark fruit liqueur flavors caress rather than pummel the palate. Gentle tannins arrive late to add structure but this is all about silky, juicy fruit.”