At $149.95 (the lowest price in the country), can you call the 2007 Joseph Phelps Insignia a value, worthy of a mention on Nickel and Dime Wine?  It depends on your definition of value.  For the record, my definition of value is a product that significantly outperforms its price point.  So by my definition, the 2007 Insignia is an indisputable value just as a Ferrari 458 Italia (a $230k car) would be a value at $100k.  It’s not for everyone, but for those that can justify spending $150 on a bottle of wine, this potentially perfect example is worth it.

Robert Parker says “I would not be surprised to see it become the greatest Insignia to date and close in on a perfect score.”  Last year I had the 2002 Insignia (currently selling for $200+), which was widely recognized as one of the best to date, even receiving Wine of the Year recognition from Wine Spectator.  It was the best Cabernet I’ve ever drunk and a year later the smell, taste and texture lingers in my mind today.  The same can’t be said about about other “experiences” I’ve spent $150 on- a night in a hotel, my last visit to the dentist’s office, my cable bill- the list goes on.  That’s the beauty of wine.  You aren’t only buying a product but, if you like wine like I do, you’re potentially buying a potentially memorable experience.

Wine connoisseurs all over the world are spending $200, $300, $500 and even thousands of dollars on so-called “cult” Cabernets and First Growth Bordeaux.  They spend that money, not because the wine is worth it.  Nothing that can be consumed and passed through body in a matter of hours can be worth those prices.  They spend that kind of money for the experience and the memory.  For $150, the 2007 Insignia should be opened with family or friends, and will likely provide a more pleasurable experience for much less money.  And for many, that is the definition of value.

Buy Here: 2007 Joseph Phelps Insignia $149.95

Robert Parker 97-100 points

“The 2007 Insignia (a 13,500-case blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot) offers a seamless introduction to this flagship cuvee. Its inky/purple color is followed by aromas of creme de cassis, incense, crushed rocks, lead pencil shavings, cedar, and spice box. It possesses a massive, opulent mouthfeel, serious tannins, and no hard edges. This stunning effort should hit its peak in 5-8 years, and last 40 years. I would not be surprised to see it become the greatest Insignia to date and close in on a perfect score.

In case you think the aging curves I have described are unrealistically long, I have the Joseph Phelps regular Cabernets from the mid-seventies as well as the Insignias in my cellar, and those wines are still drinking beautifully at 30+ years of age. Today’s wines are better made.”

How Caymus makes consistently fantastic wines year after year is absolutely beyond me.  Not only have I never had a vintage I didn’t like, I’ve never had one that didn’t blow me away.  Did you ever wonder why they release their wines a full year before most other wineries and two years before competitors like Silver Oak?  Because their wines sell out every year.  Those other wineries already have their wines bottled, but they can’t release the next vintage until the prior vintage is gone.  Caymus doesn’t have that problem.  Some people won’t buy Caymus because it’s one of the most famous names in the valley.   But unlike some of their competitors who rest on their laurels, Caymus wines keep delivering every year.

Equally impressive is how this wine tastes great upon release but is completely ageworthy at the same time.  Comparisons will no doubt be made to Caymus’ incredible 2007 vintage.  I haven’t drunk the 2007 and 2008 side-by-side yet, but my initial thought is that the 2008 drinks as well or better than the 2007 today.  How they will compare in 10 years is TBD.  My gut is that the 2007 will be marginally better, but it really could go either way.

What I love so much about Caymus wines is their uniqueness in an age when many California Cabernets are starting to taste alike.  I guarantee I could pick ether vintage out of a lineup of 10 similarly priced California Cabernets.  They have a signature sweetness that brings the firm tannin into balance.  Perhaps the best part of this wine is the texture- weighty, silky and rich in every way.

In the style of The Most Interesting Man in the World: ” I don’t always drink $60 Cabernet, but when I do, I prefer Caymus”.

Buy Here: 2008 Caymus Cabernet $59.95

The Bordeaux marketing machine heralded the 2005 vintage as the best since ‘82, and with good reason.  The wines are historically concentrated, highly age-worthy and balanced despite their high alcohol levels.  Many of the best 2005 Bordeaux values are long since sold out, but some values remain for the savvy shopper.  Case in point, the 2005 Chateau Domaine de Courteillac which is drinkable now, likely to improve with age, and, most importantly, is a great value.

This wine pours a deep, nearly opaque red.  The nose is still somewhat closed but its potential shows in the mouth where this Bordeaux is particularly silky with firm, but approachable tannins and a middle length finish.  Some of the 25% new oak shows through, making it clear that this is a serious Bordeaux.

I have a good bit of 2005 Bordeaux in my cellar, but haven’t drunk much because it needs so much time to become drinkable.  So it’s nice to taste a 2005 that’s approachable at the ‘young’ age of 5.  Many Americans (sometimes myself included) don’t have the patience, or the storage facilities to wait for Bordeaux to mature.  If you’ve been waiting to buy 2005 Bordeaux or you have a bunch that isn’t ready to drink, pick up a few bottles of this great example.  It received 90 points from Wine Spectator and 87 from Robert Parker.  In lesser vintages, wines like this would be going for double the price.  Easily.

Buy Here: 2005 Chateau Domaine de Courteillac Bordeaux $17.95

Wine Spectator 90 points

“Dark in color, exhibiting beautiful aromas of blackberry, coffee and milk chocolate. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a light toasty oak and citrus fruit aftertaste. Balanced and pretty. Best after 2013. 10,830 cases made.”

You can’t get Oakville Cabernet at these prices!  Vineyard land in the Oakville appellation of Napa Valley, wedged between Yountville and Rutherford, costs well over $200,000/acre so it’s exceptionally rare to see an Oakville Cabernet under $50.  Those that do sell under that price point are often made of remnant grapes that didn’t make the cut for other top wines.  That’s why Turnbull’s 2007 Cabernet is so special.  It’s Estate grown, in their Oakville vineyards, which means that the grapes are owned and grown by Turnbull and never leave the property until the wine is bottled and sent to the distributor.

This is textbook Oakville juice- rich and sweet with a round tannin on the back of the palate.  This is a serious wine.  Fans of Groth or Plumpjack, are going to be really impressed with the latest release from Turnbull.

That crazy contraption on the top of the bottle is the Soiree Wine Decanter Aerator (available at LA Wine Co. for $19.95). It’s made of hand blown glass and aerates the wine as it’s being poured.  I think it helps to open up young wines if you don’t have time to decant for an extended amount of time.  Will it make a bad wine good?  Absolutely not.  But it will make a good wine better.  Definitely worth the $20.

The 2007 Turnbull Cabernet is drinking great right now but also has the structure for 10-15 years of aging.  For the equivalent of $36 per bottle this is one of the best values going and another prime example of the magic of the 2007 vintage in Napa Valley.

Buy Here: 2007 Turnbull Cabernet 375ml $17.95

Robert Parker 92 points

“The brilliant 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is the real deal. Incense, forest flowers, black fruits, and crushed rock, jump from the glass of this inky purple-colored wine. Full-bodied, dense, and voluptuously textured, this is a beauty, a superb bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon that should drink well young but age 15-10 years. Bravo!

It’s hard to believe this winery has been in operation for 30 years, placing it among the older ones in Napa Valley. I was very impressed with their Cabernet Sauvignons, and less so with their Merlots.”

When we pulled up to the front gate of Nickel and Nickel’s Oakville Winery and pushed the call button to open the gates, we knew we were in for a premium experience with some premium wines.  As we walked through the front entrance (pictured above) we were greeted with a glass of Nickel & Nickel’s 2008 Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay on a silver platter (literally).  While waiting in the parlor room, we took in the vintage furnishings of the perfectly restored 1884 vineyard house.  Every structure on the property has been perfectly restored to better than original condition but with a specific effort to stay true to the original.

Originally founded by John C. Sullenger in the 1880’s, Gil Nickel purchased the property in 1998 with two goals in mind: pay tribute to John Sullenger’s farmstead vision and create a premium winery for the production of single vineyard wines.  He was successful on both fronts.  Both the property and the wines are exceptional.  Gil made his money in the nursery business (trees not children).  Every winery story starts similarly.  It seems like starting a winery is a great way to spend money but not really make money, because none of the stories feature the founder getting rich from making great wine.

The barn pictured to the right was originally built in 1770 in New Hampshire and was purchased by Gil Nickel from that original farm when it was about to be burned down, disassembled, shipped across the county, and reassembled using the original construction techniques.  The barn now contains a banquet table, kitchen and glass enclosed offices but retains the original post and beam construction.  It’s really a spectacular modern twist on the original barn.

Next we moved on through the fermentation barn, a new structure built in the ancient post and beam technique.  Nickel and Nickel has a unique challenge since they make 27 single vineyard wines, requiring many more tanks since the wine must be fermented independently.

They are also one of the very few valley wineries that feature a “cave” because there are no mountains into which the cave can be dug.  This one is actually under the barn but once down there, it’s the same as being in the side of any mountain on the perimeter of the valley.  The cave actually provides an economic benefit for the winery because air conditioning isn’t required for the extensive barrel aging.  Nickel and Nickel is 100% solar powered keeping with an admirable trend toward green winemaking in Napa Valley.

Sitting on the back porch of the winery, taking in the scenery, it’s easy to see why Gil Nickel wanted to restore this property.  It’s a stunning setting to grow, create, and drink fantastic single vineyard wines.  I’m not going to write specific notes on each of the six Cabernets we tasted but all were very good and a couple were exceptional.  The 2007 Vogt Vineyard from Howell Mountain and the 2007 John C. Sullenger Vineyard Cabernets (grown on the adjacent 30 acres) were standouts.  At $90-120 a bottle, these are not cheap or even value priced wines, but they are collectible, highly rated and ageworthy.  The tour and tasting are $40 per person, on the high end of the spectrum, but for the right occasion, it’s definitely worth the money. Make this one your splurge and you won’t be disappointed.

Chappellet Winery, located high atop Pritchard Hill, was the second winery established after prohibition when the Chappellets’ took a risk pursuing the concept that mountain wines were better than their peers from the valley floor.  The risk paid off with their flagship Pritchard Hill Cabernet routinely scoring over 95 points and their other wines achieving 90+ point scores at reasonable prices. The same care comes through just as clearly in the tour of their winery, which is a must for any fan of their wines.

The drive to the winery winds up Pritchard Hill and  is almost as stunning as the winery itself.  As we drove along Sage Canyon Road, along Lake Hennessy, it gave me a glimpse of what Napa must have been like when the Chappellets founded their winery in 1967.  Turn up the mountain toward the winery and the heavily wooded road opens up into expansive hillside vineyards with open vistas of the lake below.  Even if you don’t stop at the Chappellet Winery, make the drive for the views!

Chappellet’s winery, office and barrel room is housed in a unique three sided pyramid building that, when viewed from above, forms the iconic logo that appears on all Chappellet wine bottles.  The building is framed in heavy timber and, in a time when wineries were seen as factories rather than showpieces, this building must have been quite a site.  It has withstood the test of time and fits in nicely with its surroundings.

Although not as unique as some of Napa’s caves, the expansive barrel room is nonethless impressive and made a great setting to begin a discussion of Chappellet’s winemaking techniques.  While we enjoyed a glass of their highly acclaimed 2008 Chardonnay ($24.95 at LA Wine Co), we learned that meduim toast French and, surprisingly, Hungarian oak barrels are used to age Chappellet wines, none of which receive 100% new oak. We heard mixed reviews of Hungarian oak during our trip but Chappellet insists that it’s finally coming into its own after being mostly wiped out during WW2.  Our lovely tour guide went on to describe the intricate barrel making techniques and gladly answered our groups questions.

The tour then proceeded past the fermentation tanks (once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all), outside past the crush pad, and into the vineyards.  There we stood drinking a selection of Chappellet’s acclaimed Cabernets including a limited production, single clone and a barrel sample of their 2008 Signature Cabernet, which is looking very promising.  Our guide described the great care that’s put into vineyard management and how Chappellet’s sustainable practices are core to their winemaking philosophy.  The operation is entirely powered by solar panels, located behind the building.  This is a great trend in the traditionally resource intensive craft of winemaking.  Chappellet also provides on-site housing for most of their vineyard workers which they believe translates into higher quality wine since their staff tend tend to stay for the long term.  Water is sourced from on-site aquifers and hundreds of special birdhouses are placed thoughout vineyards to house birds of prey to keep the rodent population to a minimum.  It’s truly a self-sustaining operation; yet another reason to buy their wines.

The tour concluded in the barrel room with a tasting of the brilliant 2007 Pritchard Hill Cabernet (at LA Wine Co. for $109.95), which has been rated 96 points by Wine Spectator for the last three vintages running.  My wife was especially impressed with the Chappellet Red coats, provided to keep everyone warm, since it’s always a cool 55 degrees in the barrel room.

If you’re looking for an off the beaten path experience at a world class winery, Chappellet could be the best choice in the Valley.  At $25 per person for the roughly 1.5 hour tour, that’s a certified Nickel and Dime Wine value.  Consider this: Quintessa makes only one wine, that’s roughly the same price as Chappellet’s Pritchard Hill Estate Cabernet, and their tasting fee is $45.  At Chappellet, you get to taste a number of highly rated wines, walk the beautiful vineyard and learn about the history of the wines you’re drinking, all of which adds up to an unforgettable experience.

Our trip to Napa started with a drive along a winding road to the secluded Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards.  Upon arrival at the old house and small warehouse building, an unassuming man in a golf cart pulled up.  I told him we were there for a tour and he suggested I check in at the winery office.  The office is a small room on the back side of the fermenting facility and there we were greeted by Ronene Anderson.  She gave us the option to taste with the winemaker which we were happy to accept.  Tours at Anderson’s are usually given by one of the Andersons or by the winemaker, so visitors are likely to have a special experience.

Mac Sawyer Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Winemaker

That unassuming man who directed us to the winery office turned out to be Mac Sawyer who, along with vineyard owner Todd Anderson, makes the wine at Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards.  Mac, accompanied by his Australian Razorback, Scout,  was our gracious hosts for a private tasting in their caves cut deep into a mountainside in Conn Valley, east of Howell Mountain.  He started making wines for the Andersons’ in 2000, but that’s hardly where his winemaking career started.  In fact, it started in the seventh grade, when he made his first wine because of an interest in chemistry.

His interest in wine didn’t end in the seventh grade, as Mac went on to intern in some of France’s most prestigious wineries including First Growth, Chateau Cheval Blanc.  Mac is a fantastic story teller and, as we sat in the cool humid cave (currently at 70% which is about 5% under Mac’s preference), tasting his treasured wines, he told us of his experiences as a graduate student in France and later as a winemaker in Monterey and Napa Valley including contributions at Groth and Clos Pagase.  Humble and understated, he spoke of his time with Robert Parker, tasting in the Anderson’s own caves, as though it was another tasting with my wife and me.  He couldn’t even recall most of RP’s ratings on their wines except that he had downgraded a Conn Valley Vineyards wine from 98-100 to “only 97 points”.

The 11,000 sq ft of caves, coated in red concrete are at the same time rustic and magical.  They are a stark contrast to the Disney World style that many wineries in the valley choose.  The smell upon entering a wine cave is unlike any other.  I told Mac that I wanted to build a barrel room in my house someday.  He suggested I open a small winery but unfortunately my backyard in Redondo Beach isn’t suited for grapes, otherwise I totally would…  The smell, comes from the barrels where Conn Valley Vineyards chooses only French oak (40-60% new depending on the wine).  Still a chemist at heart, Mac experiences with American oak every year, but has yet to find an example that imparts the same quality flavors as French.  I also asked him about Hungarian barrels, which have been receiving a lot of press lately, but they “just don’t do it for him”.  Who am I to argue?

Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Caves

Seeing the simple surroundings and tools at Anderson’s made me realize what I really love about wine and, more specifically winemakers: they are farmers at heart.  But they are framers that have a knack for chemistry and possess a skill that goes far beyond farming or following a recipe.  Wine, at the most simple level is grapes, tanks, barrels, and bottles.  But what makes special wines special is the human influence that a winemaker like Mac adds.  There is no formula for great wine.  It’s 90% art supported by 10% science.  But without that 10% science, wine is just fermented grape juice.

Despite his “everyday man” demeanor, Mac is making some extraordinary wines.  His Bordeaux varietals are highly age worthy (Robert Parker gives many 25-30 years), and have a uniqueness that only 40+ years of winemaking experience can bring.  Most important, in the day of $125+ Napa bottles, Conn Valley Vineyards is making high scoring wines that are relative bargains .  Numerous 90+ Robert Parker wines have emerged out of Conn Valley Vineyards, and more recently, 95+ points including the 97 point 2007 Right Bank- a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

We tasted six wines and 3 barrel samples ranging from 2006 through 2009.  Everything was spectacular, though different.  Below you will find some notes from each wine.  I would strongly suggest you track down whichever wine appeals to you.  I doubt they will remain in the $50-75 range for long.

Bottle Tastings:

2008 Carneros Chardonnay- This Chardonnay, made from sourced grapes, goes through no malolactic fermentation though it is aged in French oak.  Many people confuse oak aging with the texture that malolactic fermentation adds and this Chadonnay is a truly unique middle ground.  It has a definite oak influence while retaining the crisp fruit that citric acid imparts.  Really nice.

2007 Carneros Pinot Noir- Somewhat one dimensional but nonetheless enjoyable, I would forgo this for the other wines tasted today.  This Pinot is full bodied but somewhat tart.  I would guess that a couple of years in the bottle would add a complexity that could move this from average to special.

2006 Cabernet Reserve (RP 94)- This was the start of some off-the-charts Cabernets and Cabernet blends.  Somewhat reticent upon pouring it started to open up in the glass and hinted at the magic to come.  This wine will develop into something exceptional and, if you can still find it, it would make a great addition to any cellar.

2007 Cabernet Reserve (RP 93-95)-  The 2006 was amazing until it was overshadowed by the 2007.  I’ve been a huge fan of most 2007 Napa wines and this is certainly no exception.  Rich, oaky, but not overly so, and complex, this is a 25 year Cabernet.  Imagine opening this bottle in 2035 when we have flying cars and a Mars outpost because that’s how long it will last – that’s just 25 years from now, right?

2007 Right Bank (RP 95-97)-  Equally as special, although still slightly tight, this wine will hit its stride in 5+ years and last for another 20-30.  It’s made from mostly sourced fruit which, in a way makes it even more special because it exemplifies the value of a talented winemaker and ranks high on my want-to-have list.

2006 Eloge Proprietary Red (RP 95)- Every ‘Eloge’ we tasted today was spectacular and, in a vintage that I haven’t been thrilled with, this was amazing.  Exceptionally complex, it’s drinking amazingly well right now but will only improve for the next 10 years.  Concentrated and mouth coating, this Cabernet/Cab Franc blend would be my choice if I had to pick one Conn Valley Vineyards wine.  I’ll be tracking down a few bottles myself.

Still Available at LA Wine Co: Click Here to purchase.

Barrel Samples:

2009 Carneros Chardonnay- Still cloudy because it had recently been racked, the 2009 Chardonnay shows great potential.  This was already more rich than the 2008 and is likely to get even more so, as it still had a few months to spend in the barrel.

2009 Cabernet Reserve- 2009 is looking like another knock-out year for Napa Valley.  This won’t be bottled for another year, but was already super rich with an amazing bouquet and a lengthy complex finish.  I can’t wait to taste it from the bottle in a few years.

2008 Eloge Proprietary Red- Probably the highlight of the tasting.  The 2008 vintage is receiving mixed reviews from the various wineries we talked to but Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards has done some great things with this one.  Possibly eclipsing the 2006 in complexity, the 2008 Eloge was drinking great from the barrel, so I can only imagine it’s going to be fantastic from the bottle when it’s released a year or so from now.

This Sicilian gem is made from the native Nero d’Avola grape, and if you haven’t experienced the wines of Sicily, this would be a great place to start!  Though the name is as unpronounceable as that Icelandic volcano, the wine itself is highly pronounced.

Keeping with the volcano theme, a fresh expressive nose foreshadows an explosion of flavor on the palate, with tart but ripe cherry and dense dark fruit flavors.  I would describe this wine as Tuscany meets southern Rhone.   It has the dryness of Chianti combined with the juicy, dense fruit flavors of CdP.  All I can say is that you have to try it and you’ll understand what I mean.  The flavors are very familiar, yet unique at the same time.  This wine is highly ageworthy and while drinking great right now, it will only get better with 5-10 years on the cellar.

Buy 2005  Gulfi Nero d’Avola Nerobufaleffj- $29.95

Tonight I enjoyed this Sicilian wine with a fantastic Sicilian meal.  This meal is another Trader Joe’s weekly treat for us and here’s how it’s made:

Trader Joe’s Penne Arrabiata with Wilted Arugula and Sicilian Chicken Sausage:

1. Head to Trader Joe’s frozen food section and buy a bag of Penne Arrabiata for around three bucks.  While you’re there, pick up a tray of their Sicilian Chicken Sausage and a bag of baby arugula.

2. Cook the sausage on the grill or in a skillet.

3. Heat the pasta in a skillet according to the instructions but instead of eating as is, add a large handful of arugula.  It will look like too much when you add it but once it wilts, it simply adds a nice lemony, spicy flavor.

4. Serve with a great Sicilian wine, and for a special treat add a little goat cheese to the top of the pasta.

Robert Parker 93 points

“The 2005 Nerobufaleffj is a powerful, dense offering with tons of fruit backed up by an imposing structure. This is a decidedly primary, fresh Nero d’Avola that needs another year or so to begin developing the full range of its aromas and flavors. Even so, it is formidably impressive at this early stage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.

Gulfi is one of my favorite producers of fine Nero d’Avola. These four top selections explore different facets of this native variety and are all compelling, each in their own way.”

Now this is a Cabernet I can get excited about!  We BYO’d Saturday night to one of our favorite spots in Manhattan Beach- Tin Roof Bistro ($10 corkage).  With us, we brought the 2006 Hall Cabernet and I can tell you that Hall has created one serious Cabernet at a less than serious price.

Speaking of serious, this is a seriously ripe, sweet Cabernet made in the modern Napa style.  It reminds me a lot of the 2007 Caymus Cabernet and actually received a higher rating from Wine Spectator than the later (94 points!).  The nose is fantastically expressive with ripe fruit and rich chocolate with coffee and vanilla.  On the palate, it’s mouthcoating with sweet tannins and a nice focused finish.  Assuming you have time to decant (the wine had opened up nicely day two), I see no reason to age this wine although it certainly has the structure to drink great for at least 10 years.

Hall is really on a role, with their single vineyard wines scoring in the high 90’s and this, their most generic offering, drinking amazingly well for the price.  This Napa Valley example is made from a combination of the same grapes used in their various single vineyard offerings.  I can’t wait for their 2007 releases which, as an all-around better year, are likely to be absolutely off the charts.

2006 Hall Napa Valley Caberent- $31.95

Wine Spectator 94 points

“A rich, dense, concentrated style, this is full-bodied, focused and pure, with hints of mocha and black licorice rounding out the core currant, plum and black cherry flavors. Focused and persistent, with a long finish. Drink now through 2017. 18,500 cases made.”

If you’ve been holding off on buying 2005 Bordeaux, first of all where have you been?  But more importantly, now is your chance to buy a highly rated ‘05 for under $30.  I bought this wine as a future for around $40 on the recommendation of a friend who is a big Bordeaux collector.  I felt good about that price given the 93 point Robert Parker rating, but at under $30 I would have bought much more.  There is not much 2005 Bordeaux left on the market and with 2009 looking like the next “all star” vintage, buy up on this great value to drink for the four years you’ll have to wait for the 2009 to mature.  I’ll open my first in three or four years.

Robert Parker 93 points

“La Vieille Cure’s amazing 2005 is even better than their terrific 2003 and 2000. The 2005 boasts an inky/ruby color as well as a gorgeously sweet perfume of charcoal, black cherries, black currants, and spring flowers as well as an underlying mineral component. Superb concentration, full-bodied power, wonderful symmetry, purity, and texture, and a multidimensional mouthfeel are all found in this fabulous sleeper of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020+”

Chateau La Vielle Cure $29.95