Readers have probably noticed that less Napa Cabernet appears on this blog than it once did.  Why is that?  Two reasons: 1) I’ve gotten more picky about what I write up and 2) the marginal lift in the economy has made bargain Napa Cabernet harder to come by.  Sure, there are more cheap cabs in the market than ever but cheap does not equal value.  The problem with most of these value priced Napa Cabs is they all taste the same and that taste is… unnatural.

Much like Ferris Bueller on his “Day Off”, Buehler Vineyards takes their own approach to high production (15,000 case!!!) Cabernet.  What make wine enjoyable is that no two are the same, and the best are downright unique.  Buehler Vineyard’s Napa Cabernet tastes like a Cabernet, but it is identifiable and unique, and to my palate, highly enjoyable.

The color is dark ruby (not purple) like a traditional, dare I say, old school Cabernet.  The nose stresses red berries over black with cedar undertones.  On the palate it has a medium-full body and a juicy, bright taste.  Tannins build on the finish, suggesting the wine will age well for a decade.

This wine reminded me of something from the moment I pulled the cork and poured it in the decanter, and I finally thought of what it is.  It reminds me of a hypothetical second wine from Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards Reserve Cabernet.  It’s not a stretch, as Buehler is located around the corner in Conn Valley – where 30% of this fruit comes from.

If you are a fan of traditional, refined Napa Cabernet, pick up a case of this wine that Robert Parker calls “a real steal and one of the greatest sleepers I have tasted from Napa”.  Parker got his review right, though he got the production wrong.  Buehler deserves acknowledgment for making 15,o00 cases of this wine (vs. the 1,800 that Parker thought), available to the masses.  The only thing not available to the masses is LA Wine Co’s sub $17 price.

Buy Here: Buehler Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley $16.95

Robert Parker 90 points

If you read over the pages of this blog, you’ll notice that I’m a big fan of large production wineries who create great wines year in and year out.  In Napa Valley, there is perhaps no better example than Robert Mondavi.  Their parent company Constellation Brands (market cap $4.46 billion), owns huge brands like Corona, Kim Crawford and, yes, Arbor Mist.  They can’t all be winners right?  But despite, or maybe because of their size, they are able to produce high quality, relatively low priced wines every year.

2007′s Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Napa outperforms the very good 2006.  Dark and opaque in the glass, it looks like a $50 wine as soon as it’s poured.  A full 38% of this wine comes from the famed To Kalon vineyard in Oakville where the likes of Schraeder, Paul Hobbs and Mondavi’s own reserve label are sourcing grapes for $100-250 wines (Mondavi owns part of this vineyard along with Andy Beckstoffer).  The nose is textbook Cabernet and on the palate it’s firm but already shows some of the nuances that a couple of years of bottle age will surely expose.  There is less oak influence and overall complexity in this bottling than the Oakville or Reserve, but the underlying fundamentals are all there, making the $16.95 price tag an outright steal.

This wine will be going strong a decade from now, which says a heck of a lot about a $17 Cabernet.  It received 90 points from both Robert Parker and Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine cellar.  Cheers to Mondavi for making another killer value.

Buy Here: 2007 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Napa $16.95

Robert Parker 90 points

“It is hard to find a better value than the outstanding 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (which may even be discounted for under $25 a bottle). This sleeper of the vintage exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color as well as loads of cassis, blackberry, graphite, and cedar notes. Full-bodied, rich, and concentrated with silky tannins and a lush, generous constitution, this beauty is capable of lasting 10-15 years.

I know there have been a lot of concerns about the huge Constellation empire running Mondavi, but these remain very impressive wines.”

Steven Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar 90 points

“Good deep ruby-red. Aromatic nose combines currant, flowers, menthol, mint and fresh herbs (I might have said garrigue Then sweet and lush but suave and not at all exaggerated, with very good tannic support to the red fruit and lavender flavors.”

I was in Chicago last weekend and having recently enjoyed the 2000 vintage Piper-Heidsieck, I thought it was the perfect opportunity to give the non vintage version a try.  As you will find out with our soon to be launched (massive) Facebook campaign, I don’t need a celebratory excuse to drink Champagne, but in this case I was celebrating meeting up with the family in the Second City.

Much like Chicago, this Champagne is clean, crisp and a little nutty.  Unlike Chicago, it’s best enjoyed on ice.  Totally unrelated to Chicago it has a really nice citric note and a creamy mouthfeel with a complexity rarely found in Champagne at this price point.  I loved Piper-Heidsieck’s vintage bottling, but at less than half the price I’m having trouble coming up with a reason not to just drink the NV version twice as often.  It’s really good.

I love California sparkling wine but Champagne (meaning sparkling wine from the Champagne region of France) has a certain dryness and complexity that I haven’t tasted in the domestic version.  If you’re just getting into Champagne or you’re a long time fan, this is a perfect expression of the style that anyone can enjoy.

Of note, it comes in a clever aluminum “Cool Box” (pictured right) which is meant to keep the bubbly cool after it’s removed from the fridge.  This would make a great gift, a perfect start to any day ending in “y”, or an outstanding first bottle on a Friday evening.  I’ll take a mimosa hold the orange juice.

Buy Here: NV Piper Heidsieck Brut $27.95

Wine Spectator 91 points

“A fresh, medium-bodied style, this shows finesse, with notes of apple, peach, ruby grapefruit, vanilla and toast. The refined texture and vibrant structure keep this focused and lingering, with fine length. Drink now through 2012. 50,000 cases imported.”

Beringer’s Private Reserve program, hands down, makes some of the best wines coming out of Napa, and they do it at reasonable prices.  In January 2008 Beringer’s head winemaker, Ed Sbragia, transitioned to a consultant role leaving his protégé, Laurie Hook in charge.  If the 2008 vintage of the Chardonnay is any indication, she is doing a fantastic job because this is by far the best 2008 Chardonnay I’ve tasted.

I try to feature wines that are perennial values and Beringer’s Private Reserve Chardonnay (and Cabernet for that matter) is another one of those wines.  A blend from multiple Napa vineyards, it’s rich and buttery with a unique smoky nose.  An oily mouthfeel is complemented by crisp citric acid and an exceptional finish.  To my taste, this is the best Chardonnay under $30 and I haven’t had a better example under $50 in recent memory.

This past week I had the pleasure of dining at Gramercy Tavern in New York.  I brought a 1999 Broman Cabernet and a 2003 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet.  I really wish I had brought this Chardonnay instead of the Broman (which is a great wine), because it would have been perfect for the seafood-heavy early courses and likely would have blown away any of the $100 bottles of California Chardonnay on their menu.  Plus it’s always fun to try multiple varietals from the same winery.

This has been a write up of the 2008 vintage of Beringer’s Private Reserve Chardonnay but it could have been of any vintage.  I’m sure the 2009 will be just as good, if not better.  This wine usually sells for well over $30 so $27.95 is a heck of a deal.

Buy Here: 2008 Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay- $27.95

Robert Parker 94 points

“The 2008 Chardonnay Private Reserve continues the success Beringer has enjoyed with this program. Notes of brioche, hazelnut, marmalade, honeyed tropical fruits, buttered citrus, and a gentle touch of smoke are found in this full-bodied, concentrated wine with impressive purity, depth, and length. It should drink well for 4-5 years.

As I have written in the past, Beringer offers between 200-250 cases of each of their single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons that go into their Private Reserve program. Interestingly, as good as the single vineyard cuvees tend to be, and they’re all very different, the Private Reserve blend is as good or better than the finest single vineyard, demonstrating that the blending process is essential and important.”

Landmark’s Overlook Chardonnay is one of those wines that’s just great every year.  It’s nice to have those bottles that, in a crunch or on a restaurant menu, you know will always be good, regardless of the vintage.  Case in point, this Chardonnay has received a 90 or higher rating from one or more of the major publications for every vintage since 2001.  At $20 it’s kind of in the middle price range that wineries avoid- the the high end of daily drinker territory but not splurge territory either.  Don’t let that hold you back.  This is better than many $40 Chardonnays out there.

The ’07 Landmark Overlook Chardonnay strikes a nice balance between malolactic fermentation richness and acidity.  It’s a balance that many winemakers aren’t able to achieve but it’s magic when they do.  The acidity comes through on the nose with bright flavors of green apple and tangerine.  It tastes rich and buttery, if not oaky, and the acid reemerges on the finish, keeping it focused and clean.

One of the reasons Landmark Overlook is great every year is that they don’t restrict themselves to one vineyard or appellation.  This year most of the grapes come from Sonoma with 20% coming from Santa Barbara and Monterey.  Owned by the great granddaughter of John Deere, Landmark follows the same mantra as as the iconic tractor company; quality products at reasonable prices.

LA Wine Co. has the 2007 Chardonnay in half bottles and fulls.  The half bottles are actually half the price of the fulls, which is pretty rare, so pick up an assortment!

Buy Here :  2007 Landmark Overlook Chardonnay $19.95

375 ML $9.95

Wine Spectator 92 points

“Green apple, floral, lime and citrus blossom scents give this full-bodied Chardonnay a distinctive edge. Crisp and flinty, ending with wet stone. Drink now through 2012. 18,000 cases made.”

Robert Parker 90 points

“The 2007 Chardonnay Overlook (most from Sonoma County with about 20% from Santa Barbara and Monterey) offers a beautiful bouquet of peaches, pineapples, and other tropical fruits along with super-purity and focus. Medium to full-bodied, crisp, and pure, with the oak pushed to the background, this beautiful Chardonnay can be enjoyed over the next several years.

The always reliable Landmark winery continues to turn out a bevy of Burgundian-styled Pinot Noirs and impressive Chardonnays. One of the best Chardonnay values in the marketplace is their Overlook.”

La Crema’s Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is one of those rare wines that’s an incredible value year after year.  They make almost 500,000 cases of this particular bottling- nearly 6 million bottles- so it really need to be good, otherwise they are going to have a ton of unsold wine!  Every decent restaurant in the country should have this on their menu because it’s inexpensive and always delivers.

The last few Chardonnays we’ve reviewed on these pages have been the no oak, non malolactic fermentation style.  This is not that kind.  The ’08 La Crema is buttery and full bodied in the traditional California style.  Our last review, the ’07 Vina Robles Huerhuero Vineyard Cabernet, talked a lot about the sense of place in the wine, created because the grapes are all harvested from a single vineyard.  This wine doesn’t have that- the grapes are from various vineyards all over the Sonoma Coast- but that’s exactly what allows it to be such a consistent value.  La Crema can choose the best grapes each year and combine them to make a textbook cool climate Chardonnay.

You know LA Wine Co has a good price on this one because the results that come close in Google Shopping are all half bottles!

La Crema Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2008- $14.95

Robert Parker 88 points

“There are just under one-half million cases of the 2008 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast, which is an excellent value, particularly when one considers it comes from the high rent district of the Sonoma Coast. Elegant white peach, apricot, and lemon blossom notes are present in this medium-bodied, crisp, well-made, barrel-fermented Chardonnay (almost three-quarters is put through malolactic fermentation). The wine possesses good freshness, purity, and depth. It should drink well for 2-3 years.”

If you’re looking for a crisp daily drinker Chardonnay, to enjoy all summer, you can’t go wrong with the 2007 Liberty School.  Unlike some of the more buttery California Chardonnay this example doesn’t undergo malolactic fermentation so it retains a fresh, clean flavor.

Time for a science lesson: Malolactic fermentation is the process of converting malic acid into lactic acid.  Malic acid is what gives many wines their tart, crisp fruit flavors.  By contrast lactic acid gives Chardonnays their rich, buttery flavor (lactic like lactose- get it?).  Forgoing malolactic fermentation is becoming increasingly popular in Chardonnay because winemakers believe it preserves the varietal’s natual flavor and texture.

I like both styles but for those looking for crisp Chardonnay with more apple and citrus influences, Liberty School is a great bet.  The grapes come from the Central Coast and the juice sits in 10% new oak barrels which adds a nice complexity.  Enjoy!

Wine Spectator- 87 points

“Clean, refreshing and vibrant green apple and green pear flavors give this nice focus, complexity and depth. Drink now. 40,000 cases made.” (WS)

2007 Liberty School Chardonnay- $9.95

This is ridiculously good for the price.  It’s definitely the best Chardonnay I’ve ever had for under $25 and also the best I’ve had from one of my favorite appellations, Santa Barbara County.  To my taste, dollar for dollar, Santa Barbara Chardonnay beats the same varietal from Napa, Sonoma or Monterey easily.

I hate to keep driving this point home, but many of the reserve wines from the big producers are knock-out values.  Kendall-Jackson makes over 2 million bottles of their Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, and it’s pretty good.  So when they focus on only 3700 cases of a single vineyard Chardonnay, you know it’s going to be something special.  Some might be turned off by the Kendall-Jackson label but those people will just have to miss out, and that just means more for us!

The nose is really nice with smoke and bright tropical fruit.  But the best part of this Chardonnay is the incredibly unique texture.  It’s oily and thick- fully mouthcoating, but still refined and sofisticated.  Camelot Highlands Chardonnay tastes great too with nice mango flavors framed by French oak.  The finish is lingering, with a nice bite suggesting this could age for a few years.

I haven’t been this excited about a Chardonnay since- well I’ve been excited about quite a few- but this one will likely remain at the top of the heap for a while.  If you don’t want to trust me, just look what Bob Parker had to say:

Robert Parker- 93 points

“The highest production comes from the 2007 Highland Estates Chardonnay Camelot Vineyard (3,700 cases), which exhibits abundant amounts of pineapple, honeysuckle, and peach along with hints of brioche and caramel. Its full-bodied, luscious finish exhibits a subtle note of oak. This Chardonnay should drink well for several years.

As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.” (WA)

2007 Kendall- Jackson Camelot Highlands Estate Chardonnay- $24.95

I had an unexpected surprise tonight and no, it wasn’t my 20 minute conversation with a former American Idol’s intoxicated wife, although that was a surprise.  It was that the Chardonnay served while conducting that conversation, at a big convention’s opening cocktail hour, was Cakebread (classy right?).  Normally you get a $5 grocery store wine like Mondavi Woodbridge, but tonight was special!

Cakebread is one of my perennial favorites and the 2008 vintage doesn’t disappoint.   It’s a great mix of fresh green apple flavors with a great mouthcoating buttery texture.  It has new oak, with with a balance that so many California Chardonnays are missing.

I had the pleasure of visiting Cakebread Winery last year and can tell you firsthand that they take their wine very seriously.  We actually ran into Jack Cakebread walking the floors of the production facility, making sure everything was operating to his high standards.  The single vineyard craze does have some merit, but a little known fact is that Cakebread purchases a high percentage of their grapes from various places in Napa, many from Trefethen vineyards.  This allows them to focus on wine making and, in my opinion, has contributed to their consistency over the years.  Well done!

2008 Cakebread Chardonnay- $34.95

Columbia Crest is well known for making solid wine at great prices and the 2008 Grand Estates Chardonnay is just that.  My three favorite regions for Chardonnay are Washington, Monterey and Santa Barbara County because their relatively cool climates produce a focused fruity wine.  The great thing about Columbia Crest is their consistency: they produce great wines year in and year out.  We had been drinking this wine as our “house” Chardonnay sine the 2006 vintage and and we finally ran out of the ’07, so we decided to try the ’08.

Much like the ’07 this has a nice mineral nose with the classic apple scents.  It tastes rich but focused and finishes with a lingering clean aftertaste.  This is very well balanced with a nice buttery mouthfeel but it’s not as though they pumped liquid oak into it like some “value priced” Chardonnay.  In a word: textbook.  Tonight I made a Thai mango chicken salad and this paired perfectly, picking up the mango and cutting through with a nice acidity.

Columbia Crest produces 200,000 cases of this particular wine.  That is more than most wineries’ entire production.  But, as I’ve mentioned before, sometimes the big guys are big for a reason.  This is one member of a strong Columbia Crest lineup that includes their H3 and Reserve wines, many of which have scored 90+ points from the critics.

The Grand Estates Chardonnay is widely available in the $10-13 range but LA Wine Co has it for $7.99.  At that price, buy it by the case!

Wine Spectator 89 points

“Polished, round and spicy, this is generous with its creamy pear and caramel flavors, lingering on the nutmeg-tinged finish. Drink now through 2014. 200,000 cases made.”

2008 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay- LA Wine Co $7.99