I just got back from a vacation in St. Thomas where everything, including wine, is obscenely expensive.  As I was standing in the  aisle of the local supermarket, Food Center, the wine I picked without hesitation was a Columbia Crest Chardonnay.  Sure, it was 150% the cost of the same wine here in the U.S. but even at that price it was still absolutely a great value.

Such is the case with nearly all of Columbia Crest’s wines and year after year the Cabernet Sauvignon from Horse Heaven Hills, labeled “H3″ is a standout among standouts.  Napa needs to watch its back because a trojan horse (or rabbit), called Washington’s Columbia Valley, is making wines that are every bit as good, though different, and much less expensive.

The 2009 Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet is one of those incredible values and at $9.95 it’s a strong contender for wine value of the year.  A compelling nose of blackberry, French oak (40% new), and earth leads to a beautifully structured wine with a notably silky texture and a palate of balanced fruit and acid.  The lengthy finish completes a wine that is easily worth 3x its single digit price tag.

LA Wine Co. has managed to keep the price below $10 despite the 90 point Wine Spectator score.  At that (or even St. Thomas’) price, it’s a case-worthy value.

Buy Here: Columbia Crest “H3″ Cabernet Sauvignon $9.95

Wine Spectator 90 points

“Focused, refined and appealing for its open-weave texture around a generous core of plum and currant fruit, finishing with hints of coffee and dark chocolate. Drink now through 2014. 69,000 cases made.”

First, let me clear something up.  In this case,  C.M.S. does not stand for the Centers for Medicare Services as some might have thought. It actually stands for the grapes that make up this Washington red blend – Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah.  And what a fantastic blend it is!

Washington wines are finally hitting many enthusiasts’ radars and for good reason.  The quality is outstanding and the values are abundant.  Furthermore, a perfect wine growing climate means incredible consistency – even more than the very consistent north coast of California.

This wine should really be called M.C.S. this year, because it’s dominated, both in taste and volume by 45% Merlot.  39% Cabernet and 16% Syrah round out a nice blend that stresses round fruit over tannin and oak.  The finish is nice and long and the mouthfeel round and broad, likely thanks to the Merlot.

Hedges Family Estate has been making this wine since 1987.   It’s a well established value that usually sells at around $12.  At LA Wine Company’s $7.99 it’s an outright bargain.

Buy Here: Hedges Family Estate C.M.S. Red Blend $7.99

Doyenne, sister label of Delille, is one to watch.  They are producing some absolutely top-notch Rhone blends from the state of Washington: AIX, a blend of Cabernet and Syrah, and Metier, a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah, and this 98% Syrah blended with 2% Viognier.  All of these wines are notably good and honestly, I don’t know which to say I like best.

The 2006 Syrah, rated 93 points by Tanzer and Parker, is anchored by blueberry, smoke and vanilla on the nose with the blueberry continuing on the palate complimented by dense black cherry.  Much like ripe black cherries, it has a mouth coating sweetness kept in check with a bright acidity.  The texture creates a length on the finish that begs you to take another sip.  This is a wine I can get truly excited about.

Since this is a wine value blog, let’s talk about why this is a good deal.  As has happened with many 2006 vintage wines, a great vintage was overshadowed by an incredible one in 2007.  The ’07 Syrah scored one point higher and thus sold out before the also spectacular 2006.  This leaves the ’06 sitting at the winery and distributors and we, the value conscious wine consumers, are the beneficiaries.  I’ve had both vintages and I actually prefer the 2006.

I fully realize that it’s hard to call a $35 Syrah inexpensive but it can be called a great value.  I’m going to be purchasing a few more of these to lay back and break out when I want something truly exciting.

Buy Here: 2006 Delille Cellars Doyenne Syrah $34.95

Robert Parker 93 points

“The 2006 Syrah contains 2% Viognier. Purple-colored with a brooding bouquet of bacon, pomegranate, lavender, and garrigue notes, on the palate this masculine, large-scaled wine is bursting with spicy black fruit and baking spices. Give this intense, lengthy wine 3-4 years of cellaring and drink it through 2021.

Doyenne is the sister label of DeLille Cellars and is used for Rhone varieties.” (WA)

International Wine Cellar 93 points

“($49; with 2% viognier) Blackberry, smoked meat and sexy floral lift on the very ripe nose. Sweet, pure dark berry flavors are complemented by a tarry nuance and lifted by lavender and brown spices. Sexy and spicy but not at all an oaky style. This very classy syrah finishes with superb cut, fine-grained tannins and excellent length.”

Tonight I made a three course spread culminating with short rib bolognese and homemade pappardelle pasta.  That pasta needed a big but elegant wine, and I picked the right one tonight.

Technically someone else picked it since last time I was in L.A. Wine Co. Steve told me I had to try this wine. He was absolutely right.  Efeste’s (pronounced F S T) ‘Big Papa’ is made from old vine Cabernet, with vine age averaging 32 years.  That’s impressive for Cabernet, which is usually replanted after 25 years due to significantly decreased yields.  The older vines make the wine more concentrated and naturally complex, lessening the need for intricate winemaking techniques.

Everything about this wine is textbook Cabernet from the beautiful deep ruby color to the complex creme brulee (read: new oak) influenced nose.  On the palate it’s medium to full bodied, with sweet, broad tannins suggesting the wine will age very well, though it drinks great today.  This wine makes a strong argument for  non-interventionist winemaking techniques as it’s perfectly balanced without giving up concentration or texture.  In fact, the texture is particularly nice, with silky, mouthcoating flavors peaking into a 20+ second finish.

This is the best Washington Cabernet I’ve tasted in recent memory and for the price tag, that’s saying a lot.

Buy Here: 2007 Efeste Big Papa Cabernet Sauvignon $39.95

Wine Spectator 93 points

“Rich, dense and focused, delivering an explosive mouthful of currant and plum fruit accented by wet stone and wet earth nuances as the finish races on without apparent weight. Deftly done—and impressively so. Drink now through 2017. 700 cases made.”

*of note, this wine also received 91 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar.

Have you discovered Washington wine yet?  If not, you are missing out on the United States’ second largest and, arguably highest value wine region.  Cabernet seems to be firmly planted as the premier grape but Syrah is not far behind in terms of quality, if not popularity.  Doyenne, the Rhone blend label of Delille Cellars, has created a wine that’s the best of both worlds, blending 35% Cabernet with 61% Syrah and a splash of Mourvèdre.

Vineyards rule in Washington as winegrowers have chosen to focus on building the reputation of the places the grapes are grown almost more than the brand of the wine.  Over half of the grapes in Doyenne’s Aix Proprietary Red come from the famed Ciel du Cheval vineyard in Washington’s Red Mountain AVA.  That pedigree certainly comes through as this wine pours a dense deep red, almost black color in the glass.  Syrah and Cabernet lovers alike will enjoy this one, with the Cabernet contributing elegance and focus and the Syrah, broad, rich textures and flavors.  Alluring aromas of mocha and smoky beef come through on the nose with the  plush palate featuring dark fruit and nice mineral flavors, so often a trait of Washington wines.

This is a spectacular value at $27 and a wine I will seek out in subsequent vintages.  I’m already seeing the benefits of point one of my New Years Resolutions – more variety.  If you weren’t already drinking Washington wine, I would encourage you to do the same.

Buy Here: 2007 Delille Cellars Doyenne Aix Proprietary Red $26.95

Robert Parker 92 points

“The 2007 Aix is made up of 61% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Mourvedre sourced entirely from the Red Mountain AVA. It gives up a splendid, slightly exotic nose of smoke, spice box, lavender, grilled meat, black currant, and plum. Forward, plush, and spicy, this full-flavored, pleasure-bent offering can be enjoyed now and over the next 6-8 years.

Doyenne is the sister label of DeLille Cellars and is used for Rhone varieties. This year only 4 wines were presented (along with a repeat of the 2006 Grand Ciel Vineyard Syrah which was as good as I remembered it).”

After having tasted a couple of outstanding, value priced Washington Cabernet in the last few months (Hogue $21.95 and Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells $11.95), I decided it was time to step it up a notch and drink a highly rated, but still high value example.  So on Friday, it was off to our favorite BYOB, Tin Roof Bistro (which also has a well priced wine list), for some burrata, beef short ribs and this  awesome 2007 Artist Series Cabernet.

None of those disappointed.  I knew good things were to come as soon as our favorite server, Nick, started pouring the deeply hued, opaque wine into the decanter.  I could smell the wine from across the table.  Mocha on the nose leads to rich chocolate complemented by good acidity and well integrated oak.  It’s all brought together by a very lengthy finish.  This is the best Washington Cabernet I’ve tasted this year and one of the best from any region.  Plus it’s $2 cheaper than the next lowest price according to Google Shopping.

Woodward Canyon features a local Washington artist’s work on the bottle every year, which is a risky strategy since buyers can’t remember a specific label.  But I appreciate their dedication to local culture.  Woodward Canyon is doing their part to cement Washington’s place on the U.S. wine map and, as far as I’m concerned, the cement is drying.

Buy Here: 2007 Woodward Canyon Artist Series #16 Cabernet $29.95

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 93 points

“The purple-colored 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series contains 1% Petit Verdot. The fruit was sourced primarily from the famous Champoux Vineyard in which the winery is a partner and the Sagemoor Vineyard, one of the oldest in the state. The Sagemoor fruit for this wine was taken from vines planted in 1972. The wine delivers a splendid nose of smoke, mineral, Asian spices, violets, black currant, and blackberry. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied wine with a velvety texture, excellent depth, savory flavors, plenty of volume, and a lengthy finish. It will continue blossoming for another 3-4 years and should provide pleasure through its 20th birthday.

Woodward Canyon, one of the pioneer producers of Walla Walla (there were 4 wineries here when I visited in 1990; now there are over 125), remains under the direction of Rick Smalls and continues to be a benchmark against which all others aspiring to the top must be compared.

If you’re looking for a wine label that delivers incredible value year after year, look no further than Washington state’s Chateau Ste. Michelle.  They produce millions of bottles of wine every year but somehow they deliver quality that’s really unmatched at the price.

Produced largely from a single vineyard in the Wahluke Slope region of Eastern Washington (pictured below), this wine has a dark inky appearance in the glass and an aromatic nose.  On the palate it’s chocolaty, rich and broad with impressive texture for a wine in this price range.  The fruit is nicely framed by the new French and American oak in which it was aged, a luxury almost never seen in Cabernet under $20.  The lengthy finish wraps up an all around great package from Chateau Ste. Michelle.

With 75,000 cases (that’s 900,000 bottles) produced, it’s great to see another high volume, high quality wine come out of Washington.  Along with Columbia Crest, whom they own, Chateau Ste. Michelle is leading the way in bringing Washington to the forefront of the American wine industry.  Many wines produced at these volumes rely on gimmicky labels to sell the cheap crap inside the bottle.  Chateau Ste. Michelle focuses on what’s inside the bottle and they are being rewarded by savvy consumers like the readers of this blog!

Buy Here: Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet 2007 $11.95

Wine Spectator 90 points

“Polished, round and generous, offering a plush mouthful of blackberry, cherry and mint flavors that ride easily over fine tannins through the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2015. 75,000 cases made.”

Since making a trip to Seattle last week, where I  indulged in some of the state’s fine wine, I’ve been on a mission to find a great Washington Cabernet at a reasonable price.  It appears that I hit it on my first try because The Hogue Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope Reserve is awesome for the price.

Traditionally, I’ve had two issues with Washington Cabernet and Bordeaux blends:

1. They tend to be very tight upon opening requiring extended bottle aging to reach their true potential.  This isn’t necessarily a deal killer, but I hadn’t drunk many Washington Cabernets at their peak until last week when I had an ’04 that was drinking very well.

2. Washington Cabernet and blends have weird names that make them hard to remember.

This wine takes care of the first point and although it misses on the second (how am I supposed to remember Wahluke Slope?).  I can probably get over that point with the help of some flash cards.  This wine is drinking great right now especially on the second day when it displays fantastic aromas of cedar and a rich palate of vanilla and dark fruit.  The finish lingers for what seems like an eternity, making for an all around great example of a Washington Cabernet.

Unfortunately this wine sits in a funny price point and optimally I would like to see it come in under that magic $20 number.  But saying a wine has to be under $20 is totally arbitrary and the two extra bucks neither excludes it from the value category nor does it make it a value.  What does make it a value is the quality at the price point and with that criteria, this is an indisputable value.  Watch for more Washington Cabernets and Bordeaux blends on Nickel and Dime Wine as I explore this emerging region.

Update from day 4 (the wine has been pumped when not being drunk): This wine became super chocolaty and even more rich the longer it was exposed to air.  After four days it went from a great value to a must buy.

Buy Here: Hogue Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve $21.95

Wine Advocate 90 points

“The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is purple/black in color with a nose of toasty oak, mineral, Asian spices, incense, black currant, and blackberry. Medium to full-bodied, dense, and ripe on the palate, this lengthy offering has enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years although it can be approached now.

The Hogue Cellars appears to be in a renaissance of sorts. The last time I tasted their wines I was unable to recommend any of them; times have obviously changed. It is Washington’s third largest producer (600,000 cases) and the vineyards (but not the winery) are still owned by the Hogue family.”

Sunday is leftover wine night at this household and tonight we have a third of a bottle of 2007 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet and the same amount of 2007 Caymus Cabernet.  The Columbia Crest has been open since Thursday and it has only gotten better each day I’ve tasted it.  It’s very rare for an entry level Cabernet to get any better after the first day, let alone the fourth, but that’s why Columbia Crest isn’t making average wines.

Much has been said about Columbia Crest on these pages in recent posts, so I will keep this relatively short.  The 2007 Grand Estates Cabernet is aromatic and pours a dark purple/red.  It’s almost thick in the mouth- a great texture for a wine in this price range.   It has a little tannic bite that would suggest it will actually get better with a couple of years of bottle age and the lingering finish is indicative of a wine 3x this price, at least.  Speaking of age, Wine Spectator, who is notorious for (overly) conservative drinking windows, says drink through 2015.  Impressive for a wine in this price range.

I’m going to finish the Caymus next and it’s going to be much better than this wine.  But 7.5 times better?  I’ll try not to think about that as I enjoy the Caymus.  Sometimes it’s hard to quantify value when it comes to wine, especially when it gets to the quarters, or even dollars per sip range!  At those prices, it’s less about the actual value and more about the enjoyment and experience.  With the 2007 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet, you don’t have to think too hard about that.  It’s enjoyable, cheap, and shows as well as other wines multiples of its price.  Enjoy!

Wine Spectator 89 points

“Supple and surprisingly complex, this is generous with its meaty currant and blackberry flavors, remaining polished and finishing with clarity. Drink now through 2015. 170,000 cases made.”

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2007- LA Wine Co. $7.99

Columbia Crest is well known for making solid wine at great prices and the 2008 Grand Estates Chardonnay is just that.  My three favorite regions for Chardonnay are Washington, Monterey and Santa Barbara County because their relatively cool climates produce a focused fruity wine.  The great thing about Columbia Crest is their consistency: they produce great wines year in and year out.  We had been drinking this wine as our “house” Chardonnay sine the 2006 vintage and and we finally ran out of the ’07, so we decided to try the ’08.

Much like the ’07 this has a nice mineral nose with the classic apple scents.  It tastes rich but focused and finishes with a lingering clean aftertaste.  This is very well balanced with a nice buttery mouthfeel but it’s not as though they pumped liquid oak into it like some “value priced” Chardonnay.  In a word: textbook.  Tonight I made a Thai mango chicken salad and this paired perfectly, picking up the mango and cutting through with a nice acidity.

Columbia Crest produces 200,000 cases of this particular wine.  That is more than most wineries’ entire production.  But, as I’ve mentioned before, sometimes the big guys are big for a reason.  This is one member of a strong Columbia Crest lineup that includes their H3 and Reserve wines, many of which have scored 90+ points from the critics.

The Grand Estates Chardonnay is widely available in the $10-13 range but LA Wine Co has it for $7.99.  At that price, buy it by the case!

Wine Spectator 89 points

“Polished, round and spicy, this is generous with its creamy pear and caramel flavors, lingering on the nutmeg-tinged finish. Drink now through 2014. 200,000 cases made.”

2008 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay- LA Wine Co $7.99